​Your comprehensive guide to double cleansing

Double cleansing, double the power!

Skincare is no longer using a face wash and moisturiser before heading out for the day or hitting the bed. It is a ritual that requires religious dedication and commitment. It is also no longer a “hobby for spoiled brats” but rather a necessity in this pollution-stricken environment of ours. It is virtually impossible to get all of the dirt, debris and makeup out of our pores adequately if you don’t do a double cleanse. Oh, what’s that? Let’s find out!

What is double cleansing?

A double cleanse (also referred to as a power cleanse) literally means cleansing or washing your face twice. Once with an oil-based based cleanser and then following with a water-based one.

Everyone has a different skin type; dry, oily or combination. You could have the same skin type as your best friend and still not understand what he/she is doing and you are not that makes their skin so glowy, and yours so acne-prone and dull. They probably do not even buy too many face products! The answer is very simple; They are most likely double cleansing their skin and eliminating pollutant particles regularly while your skin is hosting a plethora of makeup residue, sunscreen, and dust in the pores. This holds true for both dry and oily skin.

How do I double cleanse?

The method, although straightforward, has some minor details that need to be kept in mind, to be done properly. Let’s start with the process first and then move on to the type of products that you will need:

Step 1: Using the oil-based cleanser

For the first step, experts recommend that you:

1. Add your cleansing oil to dry skin and very gently massage it on to your face and neck for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Using it on dry skin is a must, as it helps removes all the waterproof makeup, sunscreen, excess oil/sebum and dead skin from your face. For oily/combination skin, focus a little extra on the T-zone.

2. Add a small amount of water and keep going in circles till it emulsifies (i.e turns milky white).

3. Rinse off thoroughly with lukewarm water.

The above steps should take no longer than one minute!

Step 2: Using the water-based cleanser

1. Use the water-based cleanser on damp skin. Dispense a small amount into the palm of your hand and use a small amount of water to lather it into a foam.

2. Gently massage it on to your face and neck in circles. Do this step for approximately 30-45 seconds.

3. Rinse off with lukewarm water and gently pat dry with a clean, soft towel.

Benefits of double cleansing

One of the biggest things that self-isolation during the pandemic taught us was how important it is to take out a little time during the day for ourselves. A lot of us took the time to take a closer look at ourselves, only to understand that a 10 second splash on our face once in the morning was not enough to clean and rejuvenate it. We are sure you’ve heard of the Korean 10-step skin care routine that has taken the world by storm. If not, click here to find out more! Well double cleansing is the backbone of this K-beauty regime.

A little fun fact: Japanese Geishas, the female traditional dance performers, with their heavy white makeup, used to double cleanse their skin to get the makeup off and still had beautiful skin; it was found that this practice has been carried out by these women for years to maintain their facial skin.

This cleansing process, although very lucrative in terms of getting everything out, is still very gentle on the skin and thus does not, in any way, strip your face of the essential oils, live skin cells and moisture that you need to keep glowing on.

While it may seem counterintuitive to apply an oil cleanser to already oily skin, keep in mind that like dissolves like! In fact, a recent study shows that oil cleansers are more effective in removing sunscreen and waterproof makeup than water-based cleansers.

Is double cleansing necessary?

It is true that not everyone needs to double cleanse regularly, but if you use makeup or sunscreen, go out to work, shop or travel or if you break out a lot, double cleansing can really make the difference for your skin.

How do I choose the right double cleansing products?

Even though we just categorically mentioned oil-based cleansers and water-based cleansers, there is a wide variety inside both these types as well. No two oil cleansers and no two water-based cleansers are the same.

Oil-based cleansers also go by the names of cleansing oil, cleansing balms, pre-cleanse oils and makeup removing oils whereas water-based cleansers are also known as cleansing milks, cleansing gel, foaming cleanser/gel, cleansing water etc.

Oil-based cleansers for dry skin

If you have dry skin, you should go with oil cleansers that have a thicker consistency because your dry skin requires all the moisturising it can get! Look for cleansers that have anti-oxidant properties and are rich in minerals/vitamins. With dry skin you also need ingredients like seed oils that can penetrate deep into your skin to remove blackheads and whiteheads while also providing nourishing and moisturising effects.

People with oily or combination skin can also consider using such products during the winter time when the skin naturally becomes a little drier than usual.

Water-based cleansers for if you have dry skin

Dry skin, as mentioned above, is best treated with cleansers that have naturally moisturising ingredients such as coconut, and aloe vera.

We recommend you opt for a gentle cleanser designed for sensitive skin. Water-based cleansers with a pH of 5.5 (or thereabouts) are well-suited for people of all skin types, as this pH is closest to the natural pH of your skin. Cleansers with a higher pH tend to strip the skin of its natural oils, giving that tight, squeaky-clean feeling, which is actually the drying of the skin due to stripping it of its natural oils. This can cause all sorts of skin issues.

Oil-based cleansers for oily or combination skin

Oily and combination skin types require lightweight oil cleansers that not only effectively clean and emulsify but are also strong enough to dissolve the skin’s natural oil and sebum, without the use of excessive cleansing tools.

When searching for a suitable product, look out for oil cleansers containing calming ingredients, such as Centella asiatica and lightweight oils, such as grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil and sunflower seed oil.

Water-based cleansers for oily or combination skin

The water-based cleansers that will suit you best when you have oily or combination skin are ones that have calming ingredients like tea tree oil, calendula extract and Centella asiatica. As mentioned for dry skin above, choose a gentle cleanser that has a pH closest to that of your skin’s healthy range (~pH 5.5). The last thing you want to do is to strip your skin of its natural oils, which can cause irritation and can exacerbate breakouts.

Double cleansing misconceptions

Misconception number 1: Double cleansing tightens your skin

The truth: Double cleansing is only meant to clean your skin and make it feel clean and nourished, not dry and tight. Products that do so usually contain the culprit ingredient sodium lauryl sulfate which causes skin irritation and disturbs your face’s pH balance.

In simpler terms, do not strive to make your skin feel tight with cleansing products, you would be drying out your natural oil and making it feel patchy and flaky. This is certainly not the goal of an effective cleansing routine. If your current products are causing irritation, we suggest to you switch to gentler ones.

Misconception number 2: Double cleansing needs to be done twice a day

This myth isn’t even logical; yes, there are separate bedtime and morning skincare routines, but the same processes do not have to be repeated twice a day to be effective. Why do you have to repeat an extensive morning routine when you just did one the night before? You just have to clear out the oil and sebum that built up during the night for your morning regime; not fight off the exposure to an entire day’s pollutants and makeup and sunscreen (like you need to do with your night time routine). In other words, double cleansing should only be done at night with a water-based cleanse only in the morning.

Misconception number 3: You have to double cleanse even if you stay at home all day

Double cleansing is not something that needs to be done very frequently when you’re hardly exposed to pollutants in the environment. If where you live is not a polluted area, you’re not wearing makeup and you aren’t leaving the house then you most likely will not have clogged pores. You can definitely just stick to double cleansing twice a week!

Misconception number 4: Oil-based cleansers break you out

This misconception cannot be further from the truth. The oil-based cleanser does not further add synthetic oil to your oily skin, rather it fights fire with fire. It removes the oil and sebum trapped in your pores that further attract dirt and debris to make a huge mess on your face. If you, however, do not properly remove the oil-based cleanser with the water-based one then yes, there are chances that the oil will form a layer around your skin to further break you out.

Misconception number 5: Do not double cleanse when you have acne on your face

Some people believe that double cleansing when you have acne can destroy your natural skin barrier. They think that since their skin is inflamed and exposed, the chemicals somehow enter the skin and damage our natural skin lining.

Truth: Double cleansing is just a gentle way of cleaning the pores that (may have) caused the acne in the first place. Pores, when left clogged, break you out and can turn into painful cysts that require medical attention. Cleaning your skin in a gentle (and non-excessive manner) will not, in any way, damage your skin barrier.

In fact, not double cleansing properly is what can lead to breakouts. Always make sure to follow an oil cleanse with a water-based cleanser, otherwise the remaining oil residue can clog the pores, resulting in unwanted acne.

Conclusion

We have addressed the most common double cleansing questions and misconceptions. By now, we hope that you are convinced about why incorporating double cleansing in your routine every night is so important.

We would suggest you first assess your skin type carefully and then invest in some suitable cleansers. Double cleansing can help you to achieve that glowing, glass skin that gives you the confidence to flaunt your style throughout the day! So, ditch the makeup wipes and micellar water and let’s get glowing :)